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Not only can lacquer be painted out in the shop, it is a many times faster paint repair than enamel. That gave the lacquer compound scratches to bite into.
No edge blending tape how to#
We painters learned how to wet the edge of the lacquer to the point it needed little or no polishing and would bite enough into the panel without peeling because we rubbed the blend area with rubbing compound.
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Because only GM cars came from the factory with acrylic lacquer … the lacquer over enamel rule was basically ignored. The rule was that you could paint enamel over lacquer, but you couldn’t put lacquer over enamel because it wouldn’t melt in, or in the case of a repainted car, lift and wrinkle the enamel. Thinking about blending paint takes me back to the good ‘ol lacquer days when I did it every day… several times a day.Īcrylic lacquer can be melted into old acrylic lacquer making a perfect repair. A little practice is all you need to prevent your clients from seeing where the pieces of drywall join up.Spot Painting … Melting-in the paint edges.īack in the late 60’s when I was learning to paint cars, we used acrylic lacquer and regular, not acrylic enamel … oh yeah, I can almost hear you guys thinking: Oh great, Old Carl is on another nostalgia kick and he is going to rant on about “way back when” again.
No edge blending tape professional#
Sand any imperfections with your sanding block.Ī smooth compound and bubble-free tape give you the invisible seams you strive for in your professional drywalling work. Ensure the coat is thin and smooth and blends in with the wall to make the joints disappear. Once the filler coat dries, repeat the process for one final finish coat at 12 inches wide. After the compound dries sand any rough patches or imperfections to get a smooth finish. This can take several passes to create a smooth look that disappears into the drywall. Now, run the trowel along the middle section at an angle to smooth out the compound. This helps the compound blend in with the rest of the drywall. Repeat along the bottom edge to feather it, focusing pressure on the bottom edge of the knife. Now, go back over the compound with a trowel to smooth out the layer.Ĭreate a tapered edge, also called "feathering," by running the knife over the seam while only putting pressure at the top. Smooth on a layer of compound in a consistent thickness, holding your 10-inch knife at an angle as you go. The filler coat comes next and helps build up the joint, particularly on joints where the tapered edges meet. Scrape away any excess compound that squeezes out of the tape, and let the compound dry. You want the compound and tape as smooth as possible. As you pull the knife along, a thin layer of compound covers the tape to hold it in place. Then, embed the tape by running your drywall taping knife over it to smooth the tape. A thick layer often makes the tape uneven, whereas a thin layer with dry patches doesn't hold the tape well.Īlign your paper tape over the center of the seam, pressing it into place without applying too much pressure.
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Your goal is to fill the seam and leave behind a thin layer of compound to hold the tape in place. Load a 6-inch drywall taping knife with the joint compound, and pull it along the seam while holding the knife at an angle. Stir the joint compound to make it consistent and easier to work with, even if you use a premixed compound. When you have butt seams, apply the compound in a thin layer, and fan out the joint compound to help the area blend in with the wall. Butt joints occur on the ends of drywall sheets that aren't tapered, creating the potential for a bump along the seam. Installing drywall with as few butt joints as possible makes invisible seams more attainable. Have 6- and 10-inch knives on hand as well.
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Additional supplies you need include a sanding block, flexible drywall taping knives and a joint compound pan. Paper joint tape gives you the strongest joints, but mesh joint tape is another option. A premixed all-purpose joint compound holds the tape securely to form strong joints that last. Like any job, having the right tools and materials is key to getting those invisible drywall seams your clients expect. Getting the perfect finish takes just a little work and some strategic thinking. Taping and mudding drywall seams can make the most confident of contractors sweat, but don't lose your cool just yet.